General Infromation


The VF/VFR Mail List
The Official VF/VFR mail list owner's list
Model year differences ('90-'93 vs '94-'97)
Pre-loved VF/VFR prices - current as of Spring 1998
Tips on loading a bike into a pickup
Mild winterization procedure


The VF/VFR Mail List

The home of the VF/VFR mail list can be found at: http://www.cs.wisc.edu/~john/vfr-list/. This site contains information on the VF/VFR mail list as well as a description of model-year differences and many accessory recommendations from list members.

The Official VF/VFR Mail List Owner's List

The Official VF/VFR mail list owner's list can be found at: http://www.ziplink.net/~jbauer

Model year differences
by: Various Authors

'90-'93 vs '94-'97

Honda claimed some 300 changes in their propaganda for the '94+ model.

Biggest changes include new bodywork, more NR like (though not enough like the NR IMHO), A new "lighter" frame. Both bodywork and frame designs contributed to less heat dumped on one's right foot. A lighter/stronger swingarm. They did away with the HEAVY exhaust collector box and ran a more conventional header system. Narrower rear rim (5.0 instead of 5.5). It sports different fork internals and front rotors as well.

Oh and the clock is now standard equipment. It is located in a new dash pack featuring white guages.

One BAD thing (design fopaux) was to put the low fuel idiot light (in red) near the oil idiot light (also in red). Are you catching on? Low fuel light goes and YOUR HEART IS IN YOUR THROAT thinking you seized your baby until you realize you will just be walking real soon. Hey! maybe that's why they did it that way. Now you won't be as mad when you are pushing your bike to the next gas station 4 miles away. You will be thinking how fortunate you are for not blowing up your bike!

The engine seems to be about the same (seat -of-the pants) meaning great powerband, just not enough of it/power (again IMHO). The bike is a little more "flickable" in the turns but not enough to have the new bike run away and hide with equal riders aboard.

Hope this helps.

Respectfully,

David M. Matthew

'90-'93 vs '94-'97 cont:

Besides the color and OEM tire changes here are the changes I could find:

New rear suspension linkage ratio.
New front rotor carriers.
New shift forks, dogs, and shift drum.
New shift drum detent star.
Lighter footpeg carriers.
Lighter frame swingarm plates.
Fork is 21oz lighter, w/ new spring rates.
Lighter, stiffer Pro-Arm.
0.55 gals more fuel capacity.
Integrated tail section (turn signals)
Standard clock.
Standard centerstand.
Standard seat cowl (w/o bump pad).
Revised engine heat dissipation system.
Chip gruards on fork sliders.
Unpainted lower fairing.
Redesigned 4-2-1 exhaust.
Larger muffler and revised swivel joint design.
Reshaped ports and cams.
34 flat slide carbs (were 36mm CVs).
Passenger grab rails are removed instead of folded and stowed.
White-face tachometer.
5-spoke 5" rear wheel (was 8-spoke 5.5").
Shorter (MUCH shorter) rear fender.
New clip-on bars are all aluminum (the old ones have steel tubes).
All new bodywork (except front turn signals and the front fender).

San Diego Joe Norris

Pre-loved VF/VFR prices

Average national pricing information can be obtained from Motorcycle Consumer News at http://www.mcnews.com/articles/used.htm

Tips on loading a bike into a pickup
By: HondaPC@aol.com

Get someone to help at home, there will friendly/helpful people at the track to help unload and load again. Loading a dirt bike is easy, but rolling a VFR up a ramp is not. One person steers and the other pushes.

You have to have a good ramp which you probably won't get with the rental truck. The cheapest is a 2 x 12 board, 8 ft long with a some way to attach it to the truck's tailgate. I bought an aluminum "ramp-top" that bolts to the end of my ramp. It's non-skid edge overlaps the end of the truck by 6 inches. It cost $30, but it ensures that the ramp won't slip and cause major damage to the VFR or truck.

I had to buy a sportbike tiedown strap too ($30). It's called a "Canyon Dancer" handlebar harness. It uses heavy nylon web sleeves on each handgrip. The left grip is "sleeved" and actually draws tight from the right side of the bike. The right grip is pulled from the left. A large loop hangs off the lower side of each grip below the bar-end weights. Using a a quality pair of motorcycle tiedowns, you simply attach to the harness ends and hope that the truck has sturdy tiedown points on the bed. I use 2 more tiedowns connected to the VFR frame under the seat to keep the rear of the bike from sliding around.

Mild winterization procedure
By: John Purcell

Editor's Note: The folling winterization procedure is recommended for mild climates and/or when the bike will be stored inside, away from the elements, mice, moisture, etc.

WINTERIZATION:
1. Fill up and stabilize gas in tank.
2. Change oil and filter.  Go for a ride to circulate fresh oil.
    Enjoy, it'll be the last ride of the season.
3. Close petcock, drain carbs.  Make sure engine has cooled down
    first in case of gas spills.
4. Put bike on centerstand (if equipped).  If at all possible raise both ends so tires are off the ground.
5. Air tires up with an extra 5 lbs. pressure.
6. Pull battery.  Trickle charge on a weekly basis.
7. Wax/polish and cover with a "breatheable" cover.
8. Every other week (or when thinking of it) install battery.
    With petcock closed and carbs still drained, turn engine
    switch off and turn over engine until oil pressure light goes out.
    Repeat.
9. Keep notes of what you've done in the service manual

SPRINGTIME:
1. Charge and reinstall battery.
2. Check tire pressure.
3. Check all fluid levels.

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